Ottolenghi: Helen’s Bolognese
An Ottolenghified bolognese that is far from ordinary, this rich mince pasta takes on a deep umami flavour from the addition of doubanjiang, a spicy fermented bean paste.
Introduction
Pasta Bolognese: so many of us grow up on a particular version of Bolognese mince which then becomes the ‘normal’ against which all others are measured. Anyone whose default is an Italian or Anglophone take on the dish will be delighted, then, by ‘Helen’s Bolognese’, which gets a lot of its depth and deliciousness from doubanjiang – a spicy bean paste made from fermented soybeans, broad beans and chillies. It is a key ingredient in a lot of Sichuanese food and readily available in Asian grocers or online.
The sauce also works really well spooned over a block of silken tofu, kind of like mapo tofu. This is also a good option if you have any leftovers that need eating up.
Ingredients
| For the meat sauce: | |
|---|---|
| 75ml | peanut oil |
| 1 | large onion, finely diced (180g) |
| 1 | large carrot, peeled and finely diced (125g) |
| 1 | celery stick, finely diced (75g) |
| 2 | star anise |
| 1 | cinnamon stick |
| 2 | bay leaves |
| 1½ tsp | Sichuan peppercorns, roughly crushed in a pestle and mortar |
| 1 tsp | fennel seeds, roughly crushed in a pestle and mortar |
| 500g | minced pork (or beef, or a mixture of both) |
| 3 | garlic cloves, crushed |
| 40g | ginger, peeled and finely chopped |
| 2 tbsp | Shaoxing wine |
| 100g | doubanjiang (aka toban djan or Chinese chilli bean paste) |
| 50ml | light soy sauce |
| 1 tbsp | cornflour |
| 7 | spring onions, finely sliced (75g) |
| 360g | pappardelle |
| For the dressed cucumbers: | |
| 1 | large cucumber, cut into thin batons (310g) |
| 2 tbsp | rice wine vinegar |
| 1 tsp | runny honey |
| 1 tsp | sesame oil |
| salt | |
| To serve: | |
| 5g | coriander leaves, roughly torn |
| 1½ tsp | toasted sesame seeds |
Method
Put the oil into a medium saucepan, for which you have a lid, and place on a medium-high heat. Once hot, add the onion, carrot, celery, star anise, cinnamon stick and bay leaves. Cook for 5 minutes, stirring frequently, then add the Sichuan peppercorns and fennel seeds. Cook for another 5 minutes, stirring from time to time, until the spices are fragrant and the vegetables are beginning to take on some colour. Take the pan off the heat and, using a slotted spoon, remove the vegetables on to a plate, leaving behind the oil and any sediments from the spices.
Keep the pan on a medium-high heat and add the meat, garlic and ginger. Cook for 5–7 minutes, stirring from time to time, until the meat is lightly browned. Add the Shaoxing wine, cook for a minute, then add the doubanjiang, soy and 250ml of water. Stir to combine, partially cover, and simmer on a medium-low heat for about 25 minutes, stirring from time to time.
While the meat is simmering, mix the cornflour with 60ml of water, stir to combine and set aside.
Return the cooked vegetables to the sauce, along with the spring onions and the cornflour slurry. Simmer for 5 minutes, uncovered, stirring from time to time.
Meanwhile, place all the ingredients for the dressed cucumbers in a small bowl. Add ¼ teaspoon of salt, mix to combine and set aside until ready to serve.
Cook the pappardelle according to the packet instructions, then divide between four bowls. Ladle over the meat sauce and top with a good spoonful of the dressed cucumbers. Finish with the coriander and sesame seeds and serve, with the remaining cucumbers on the side.
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