Don’t be afraid of a frozen pea. A chef who shall remain unnamed once told Fergus, ‘Wait until peas are in season, then use frozen.’ A comfort for the home cook.

Season the shoulder well, then heat a large frying pan over a medium heat with a splash of olive oil and brown the lamb all over.

Place it in an ovenproof dish or roasting tray large and deep enough to accommodate the joint with a little space. Gently sweat the shallots and garlic in the lamby frying pan for 3 or 4 minutes, without colouring them, and nustle these around the shoulder with the bundle of joy.

The basic contents of a bundle of joy are as follows: parsley stalks, thyme, rosemary, bay leaves. These should be tied together tightly, restraining the stalks from unwelcome stalky appearances in your braise. But remember – use this list as a rough guide rather than a tablet of stone. Nothing is essential; just use what you have to hand. There is generally a parsley stalk or two lurking around to make it all worthwhile.

Place the roasting tray over a medium heat and pour in the white wine. Reduce by half, then add the chicken stock and an extra glug of olive oil administered like squirts of factor 50 at the beach: a generous coating. While the liquid returns to a simmer, take a small bowl and whisk together the mustard and crème fraîche, loosening the mixture with a couple of spoonsful of the simmering stock. Pour the resulting sauce into the tray. The liquid does not have to cover everything – remember that you are looking for the alligators-in-the-swamp effect.

Place in a barely medium oven for at least 3 hours, the crème fraîche and meat juices unify while it blips away. Check the shoulder with a skewer and, when the meat is tender and yielding, add the peas and return to simmer in the oven for a few minutes longer.

Reinforce the seasoning if needed, discipline your mint leaves and fold through to finish.

The leftover braising juices and slippery peas make an excellent sauce for farfalle – a favourite for staff dinners.