This is an oven version of the famous Vietnamese dish cha ca, which I first had in Hanoi with my friend Mo, in a restaurant so dedicated to the dish that it is the only thing on the menu. (Cha Ca La Vong – do go if you’re visiting.) The waiters cook the fish for you then and there at the table and you have a pile of herbs, chilli and peanuts to add to your plate. It’s absolutely delicious.