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Julius Roberts’ Ginger Cake, Poached Quince and Crème Fraîche

by Julius Roberts from The Farm Table

This gently-spiced ginger cake from Julius Roberts is served with delicate poached quince and lashings of crème fraîche for a celebration of autumn in dessert form.

From the book

Julius Roberts

Introduction

Thanks to a late frost, our quince tree didn’t fruit last year. But this autumn, it more than made up for it. It was laden like a Christmas tree and hanging heavy with the luminous and richly perfumed fruit. As objects, I do think quince are a work of art, making wonderful decorations on the windowsills of the house, where they glow golden yellow and fill the room with their dizzying, floral scent. While you can eat quinces raw, I think they’re at their best when cooked or preserved. They are the original ‘marmalade’, make a great jelly to go with cheese, and are unbelievable infused into vodka – I have 8 litres steeping as I write and the aroma is astonishing. But perhaps best of all, they can be gently poached so they take on a rose colour and have a sweet but sharp flavour that is just sheer joy. Here, served with a sticky spiced ginger cake, crème fraîche and lots of the poaching liquor, they make quite the winter pudding.

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Ingredients

For the ginger cake:
150g dark muscovado sugar
250g black treacle
150g unsalted butter
2 tsp ground ginger
1 tsp ground cinnamon
½ tsp ground cloves
¼ tsp ground black pepper
50g grated fresh ginger
280ml whole milk
2 eggs
300g plain flour
1½ tsp baking powder
1 tsp bicarbonate of soda
To poach the quince:
2 litres water
300g caster sugar
8 ripe quinces
1 lemon
crème fraîche, for serving

Essential kit

You will need: a baking tin roughly 28cm x 20cm and 5cm deep.

Method

Preheat your oven to 130°C fan.

Start with the quinces. Bring the water to the boil, add the caster sugar and stir to dissolve, then keep warm. Peel and either halve or quarter the quinces, then remove the cores with a sharp teaspoon or paring knife (I find an oyster knife particularly good for this). Keep all the peelings and offcuts, as these help bring out the best colour from the quince. Place the quince quarters at the bottom of an ovenproof pan, then cover with all the peelings. Squeeze in the lemon juice and pour over the hot sugar syrup. Place a piece of baking parchment on top, then cover with a plate to submerge the quinces and place a lid on the pan. Put in the oven for 3–4 hours, until the quinces are rose-coloured and tender but not falling apart.

Remove the quinces from the oven and leave to cool, submerged in the syrup. When cold, remove all the peelings but keep the quinces submerged in syrup and place in the fridge, where they will keep happily for quite a while. Poached quince are sublime in a crumble, in frangipane tarts (page 289), with yoghurt, as in my plum recipe (page 284), all sorts of things. Serve them with lots of the syrup, but if you have any leftover liquid, it makes a fantastic cordial, cocktail or even sorbet.

Preheat your oven to 170°C fan.

To make the ginger cake, start by lining a baking tin roughly 28cm x 20cm and 5cm deep with baking parchment. Put the muscovado sugar, treacle, butter, spices and fresh ginger into a pan and place on a medium heat to dissolve. When molten, mix together and leave to cool for 15 minutes. Then add the milk, followed by the eggs, and mix again. Stir the flour with the baking powder and bicarbonate of soda to make sure they’re evenly dispersed, then sift the flour into the treacle mix and bring together, mixing thoroughly to ensure there are no lumps. Pour the runny batter into your prepared baking tin, then place in the oven and bake for 45 minutes–1 hour, until risen and cooked through. To test, insert a skewer into the middle of the cake – if it comes out clean, you’re good to go. Leave to cool for 15 minutes before slicing, then serve warm with crème fraîche, poached quince and lots of the syrup.

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From the book: The Farm Table

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