Measure the mushrooms into a jug and cover with boiling water. Leave to stand for 30 minutes. Strain into a bowl, reserving the liquid. Finely chop the mushrooms. Return the mushroom liquid to the jug and make up to 500ml (18fl oz) with the stock.

Freeze the cubed dolcelatte for at least 30 minutes so it is easier to handle.

Heat the olive oil in a frying pan over a medium heat. Add the shallots and fry for a few minutes until starting to soften. Stir in the rice, garlic and chopped mushrooms, and fry for a few more minutes. Pour in the stock, stir and bring up to the boil. Cover with a lid, reduce the heat and simmer gently for about 15–20 minutes until the liquid has been absorbed and the rice is cooked.

Stir in the Parmesan and season with salt and ground black pepper. Spoon into a shallow dish and leave to cool, then transfer to the fridge.

When the risotto is completely cold, add the tarragon and 15g (½oz) of the panko breadcrumbs. Check the seasoning. Using wet hands, shape the mixture into 40 balls. Insert a piece of dolcelatte into the centre of each one, and shape the rice around the cheese. Dip each ball into the beaten egg, then coat in the remaining panko breadcrumbs. Place in the freezer to chill for 20 minutes.

Heat the sunflower oil in a large deep frying pan over a high heat. When hot, fry the arancini in batches, if necessary, until golden and crisp. Remove from the pan and drain on kitchen paper before serving hot on a platter.

Mary’s tip: To make ahead, cook as above, then leave to chill. Reheat in an oven preheated to 200°C/180°C Fan/Gas 6 for 12 minutes. Freeze well after frying.