When I test recipes for my cookery books I like to work with Portia Spooner in the cottage in Padstow, and I ring up The Seafood Restaurant and ask for a particularly bright young chef to come and give us a hand. This time head chef Stephane Delourme was deeply apologetic but couldn’t spare anyone. My son Jack, who’s now following in his dad’s footsteps and making TV cookery shows called ‘Born to Cook’, suggested his girlfriend Lucy Musca. He said, ‘She’s done a bit of cooking’, so I thought better somebody than nobody. She’s Aussie but turns out to be half-Italian and does anyone know anyone who’s half-Italian who can’t cook, because I certainly don’t! And more to the point she casually mentioned that she used to have a Mexican streetfood taco stand in Oxford, of all places. This recipe is fab and much as I bang on about the wonderfulness of corn tortillas, flour ones do have their place. They are much better for bigger fillings like this one, and the gluten content in the flour makes for a proper wrap.