Beetroot was not something Sami grew up eating. This is a dish, therefore, which shows how the ingredients that bookend Sami’s palate – the ground allspice and cinnamon, the tangy feta and labneh, the bulgur and olive oil – can be used in a fresh way. The dip is lovely as it is, as part of a spread, or can be served as a side to an oily fish like salmon or mackerel.

Shortcut: The dip works well alone without the salsa, if you are keeping things simple. If you do this, just increase the pistachios to 100g. If you want the salsa to be gluten-free, use cooked quinoa instead of the bulgur.

Getting ahead: If you are making your own labneh (see page 48 of Falastin: A Cookbook), you’ll need to get this going at least 24 hours before serving. The dip keeps well in the fridge for up to 3 days. The salsa can be made up to a day before serving and kept in the fridge. As ever, bring both elements back to room temperature before serving.