Falafel with Tahina Cream in Pitta

Chop the onion, garlic and coriander or parsley.

Dry-fry the coriander and cumin seeds and then grind to a powder. Drain the chickpeas and place in a food processor with the spices and all the remaining falafel ingredients, except the oil. Process until smooth. Break off a knob and fry until browned. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Leave for 1 hour.

Meanwhile, make the tahina cream. Put the crushed garlic into a bowl with the tahina. Beat in the lemon juice, then gradually beat in enough water to give a consistency of double cream. Don’t worry when at first the tahina seizes up like concrete. Season with salt and add a touch more lemon juice. Pour into a serving bowl and dust lightly with cayenne pepper.

Roll the falafel mixture into balls no bigger than a small walnut. Heat a large pan of oil to a temperature of 180°C/350°F (to test, drop a cube of bread in – it should immediately fizz and begin to brown within about 15 seconds). Deep-fry the falafel in batches until well browned. Drain on kitchen paper.

While the falafel are cooking, heat the pitta bread in the oven. Put the tomatoes, cucumber and lettuce into bowls on the table, with the tahina cream. When the falafel are done, arrange on a plate with the coriander and wedges of the lemon.

Let everyone fill their pitta with a few cubes of tomato, a shred or two of lettuce and a squeeze of lemon juice. Then a few falafel, followed by a drizzle of tahina cream, more tomato, lettuce, some cucumber, coriander and a little more lemon juice, salt and pepper and, finally, another slather of tahina cream.