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Fish Sauce Caramel Wings

by Ed Smith from Peckish

These roasted chicken wings are coated in a punchy fish sauce caramel that crisps to perfection in the oven. They are perfect as a starter or enjoy as a delicious meal served with rice.

From the book

Ed Smith

Introduction

My favourite chicken wings are the ‘fish sauce chilli wings’ at Smoking Goat, a Thai-inspired restaurant in East London. There are three things to love: an impossibly crisp and airy batter, which shatters like thin glass; the always juicy and tender meat; and the insanely moreish, salty-sweet sauce served over and under them. Although I’ve heard rumours, I ultimately have no idea how the batter is achieved. But in any event, it’s unnecessary to recreate it at home; because you can achieve crisp and succulent wings just by roasting them. Ideally, you have the time and foresight to dust them with salt and baking powder in advance – the salt curing the meat (ensuring it’s succulent), the baking powder raising the pH of the skin (which encourages it to brown and bubble). Perhaps most significantly, I’ve had a stab at reverse engineering the game changing sauce, with finger-licking success! You could serve a platter of these as an appetizer or as finger food for a large group. However, wings can also be a whole meal: serve 5–7 per person with some sticky rice to swipe through excess sauce and scatterings, and a cold beer or two. That’s all your major food groups right there.

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Ingredients

For the wings
1.75–2kg (3lb 14oz–4lb 8oz) chicken wings
2 tsp fine salt
4 tsp baking powder
Finely grated zest of 1 lime
For the fish sauce caramel
120g (4¼oz) caster (superfine) sugar
4 tbsp fish sauce
Juice of 1 lime
1 tsp sriracha
To serve
3 tbsp uncooked rice
1 mild red chilli, roughly chopped
A handful of coriander (cilantro) (15g/½oz), leaves picked
5–6 tbsp crisp shallots
½–1 tsp gochugaru or Aleppo pepper flakes
Glutinous rice, cooked according to packet instructions

Method

Set up two wire racks over rimmed baking sheets (each about 22 x 32cm/8½ x 13in).

Arrange the wings in one layer within a large roasting tin. Sprinkle the salt and baking powder evenly over them, then add the lime zest and use your hands to thoroughly turn and mix together. Arrange the wings on the wire racks and refrigerate, uncovered, for 8–24 hours.

When ready to eat, heat the oven to 250°C/230°C fan/475°F.

Slide the wings into the oven (still on their wire rack-topped baking sheets) and roast for 30–35 minutes until golden, bubbling and crisp.

Meanwhile, make the caramel. Combine the sugar and fish sauce with 6 tablespoons water in a small-medium saucepan (this will bubble significantly, so ensure relatively high sides). Set over a medium-high heat and bring to the boil. Whisk to ensure the sugar has dissolved, reduce the heat a little, then leave to bubble away for 12–15 minutes until you have a much reduced, slightly glossy, thin syrup. Stir in the lime juice (ideally strained through a fine-mesh sieve/strainer) and the sriracha. Leave to cool for 10 minutes, during which time it’ll thicken a little.

Meanwhile, toast the uncooked rice in a dry pan until golden (3–4 minutes), then use a pestle and mortar to grind to a coarse powder.

Arrange the wings on a platter or divide among plates. Spoon the fish sauce caramel all over them, sprinkle with fresh chilli and coriander leaves, then add a generous dusting of the rice powder, loads of shallots and a pinch of pepper flakes. Serve with sticky rice and plenty of napkins, and eat with your fingers.

Also consider

Using the same method of curing and cooking the wings and serve with lemon butter sauce (page 48 of Peckish); a mix of crispy chilli oil, light soy sauce and Chinkiang vinegar; or a classic buffalo sauce.

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