Tip the aubergine cubes into a large bowl with a generous pinch of sea salt, mix well and leave for 30 minutes to draw out the water. (It’s not for the bitterness, as modern aubergines aren’t particularly bitter, but you get a nicer texture on frying by doing this.)

Drain away any water and pat the aubergine pieces dry with kitchen paper. Heat the oil in a large frying pan, then add the fresh curry leaves and mustard seeds. Turn the heat to medium to low and let the mustard seeds splutter for 30 seconds or so before adding the aubergine cubes. Stir-fry for 6–10 minutes until golden brown and crisp on all sides.

Taste and add sea salt to the aubergines as needed. Spread the yogurt out on a shallow plate or bowl and then scatter over the aubergine pieces. Garnish with chilli powder, if you wish, and serve immediately.

NOTE: You can fry the aubergine cubes in advance and keep them at room temperature for an hour or in the fridge until needed. Heat through in the oven at 160°C fan/180°C/gas 4 for 5 minutes from room temperature or 10 minutes from fridge-cold, before topping the yogurt as above.