Caponata: Sicilian Sweet and Sour Aubergines
In this Italian caponata recipe, golden chunks of fried aubergine sit in a sweet tomato sauce with basil, olives and pine nuts to form a delicious medley of flavours.
Introduction
Few dishes encapsulate the complex and fascinating history of Sicily as much as caponata. The island was under Islamic rule from the 9th to the 11th centuries, introducing ingredients and flavours that have become rooted in the region’s culinary identity. This popular agrodolce (sweet and sour) aubergine dish, flavoured with capers, olives, pine nuts, golden raisins, sugar and vinegar, was originally made with fish, a variation hinted at by the word capone, the Sicilian term for mahi-mahi. It’s likely the expensive fish was swapped out for aubergine at some point as a more affordable option. This is the way we made caponata at Tiella, deep-frying the aubergines to create the most incredible, indulgent texture. The aubergine soaks up all the flavours of the dish, creating a vibrant dance on the palate. Take your time slicing the aubergine into uniform pieces, that way they’ll cook evenly. If you’re lucky enough to live near a greengrocer that stocks a few of the varieties of Italian aubergines available in summer, pick a couple of different kinds to try, that way you’ll geta range of flavours and textures in the final dish. I love the long purple aubergines, which are thinner than the standard shape, as well as the amazing striped, round and white varieties. Caponata is a dish best enjoyed at room temperature so that the flavours can mingle and marry. In the summer, I like to make it early in the morning while the air is still cool, then leave it at ambient temperature so that by lunchtime, it’s perfect. This is the way we cook in Puglia, where the blazing heat dictates how and when we eat. Caponata can be enjoyed as a starter, as a side for simply cooked fish or meat, and it can even be served with cheese.
Ingredients
| 600g | aubergines |
| 1 | red onion |
| 3 | sticks of celery |
| 45g | golden raisins |
| 100g | pitted green olives |
| 1 small bunch of | basil |
| 75ml | extra virgin olive oil |
| 1 | fresh bay leaf |
| 1 x 400g tin of | plum tomatoes (you can also use fresh tomatoes) |
| 70ml | white wine vinegar |
| ½ tbsp | caster sugar |
| 45g | pine nuts |
| 300ml | oil, for frying (I use a 50:50 mix of vegetable oil and olive oil) |
| Sea salt |
Method
Cut the aubergines into cm cubes. Place in a large colander, sprinkle with ½ tablespoon of salt and massage with your hands. Position the colander over a large bowl, then place something heavy on top of the aubergines to weigh them down (I use a pestle and mortar). Salting and pressing the aubergines helps draw out as much water as possible, creating a crispier texture when fried. Set aside for around 30 minutes while you prep the other ingredients.
Thinly slice the red onion, following the natural lines of the onion. Cut the celery on a diagonal into 1cm-wide pieces.
Cover the raisins with boiling water so that they plump up. Roughly chop the olives. Pick the basil leaves and tie the stalks together with kitchen twine.
Set a large frying pan over a medium heat. When the pan is hot, add the extra virgin olive oil and bay leaf, followed by the onion, celery, basil stalks and a large five-finger pinch of salt. Cook gently for around 15 minutes, or until soft. Add the tinned tomatoes, vinegar and sugar. Simmer over a low heat for around 15 minutes, or until it has thickened considerably.
Meanwhile, lay out the aubergine on a clean tea towel or kitchen paper to dry. Discard any liquid that has collected at the bottom of the bowl.
Place a deep, heavy-based pan over a medium-high heat and add the frying oil, ensuring there is a four-finger-sized gap between the top of the oil and the top of the pan. Use a thermometer to check the oil does not exceed 180°C. Set up a wire rack or tray covered in kitchen paper and place to the side.
Fry the aubergine in batches until golden, carefully adding a few handfuls at a time and rotating them constantly. Lift out each batch with a slotted spoon or spider and place on the kitchen paper to absorb any excess oil. Repeat this process until all the aubergine has been fried, then turn off the heat and carefully set the oil aside to cool before draining.
Add the fried aubergine, olives, pine nuts and raisins to the tomato pan and gently stir to combine. Take care not to over stir at this point or the aubergines will break down. Taste a decent spoonful, checking for seasoning, sweetness and acidity. Adjust if needed so that each element is balanced, adding a pinch of salt, sugar or a splash of vinegar as required. The final dish should have a gentle punch to it, where each of the flavours are pronounced but not overpowering.
I like to let the caponata cool down to room temperature before serving. Garnish with the fresh basil leaves and a tiny drizzle of good-quality olive oil. Serve with fresh bread.
The caponata can be stored in the fridge for up to 3 days. Remember to bring it to room temperature before serving or you will lose the flavours.
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