My recipe for mapo tofu takes great liberties with Fuchsia Dunlop’s wonderful recipe in Every Grain of Rice – I replace the meat with mushrooms and the wobbly tofu for firm, only because I prefer the texture. It’s perfect with a big bowl of fluffy white rice. Don’t panic if you can’t find Sichuan chilli bean paste easily, I’ve successfully (if unorthodoxly) used Lee Kum Kee’s chilli garlic sauce, which incorporates fermented soy beans. Once you have either sauce in, you’ll be making this on a regular rotation – it’s addictively good.