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Curban: Lamb Soup with Pearl Barley and Mint

by Irina Georgescu from Danube

A comforting, satisfying slow-cooked soup, with melt-in-the-mouth lamb shanks, pearl barley and root vegetables, this warming dish is an antidote to cold winter days.

From the book

Irina Georgescu

Introduction

The name Curban may sound familiar to those who know about the Muslim festival called Kurban Bayram, the Feast of the Sacrifice. Although the Ottomans spread the name to the Balkans, the tradition is a social practice that holds cultural significance across many religions, including Christianity. It is a powerful way for people to come together around a dish that is both life-giving and healing.

In Romania, the Greek villages in the south celebrate Curban publicly on St. George’s Day, the patron of shepherds. The purpose is to appease fate and secure prosperity in the new farming year. Curban is traditionally associated with a patrilineal hierarchy, so the sacrificed animal must be a male, usually a lamb, the same as at Easter. However, there are variations for less-special occasions with cockerels, ganders, or rams. Before roasting, the Curban is purified by sprinkling salt and smoking it with frankincense. It is then basted while cooking with bunches of basil, spearmint or rosemary, symbols of new life and regeneration. The whole community must share the roast together and once finished, the bones are buried in the ground to ensure good fortune for all.

The rituals take many forms throughout the Muslim and Christian world, from public celebrations to private rituals for health. In Bulgaria, south of the Danube, it is celebrated on both Sabor, the Saint day of the family, and as a thank you on a meaningful day when one surmounted a difficult challenge. The lamb dish is a soup, not a roast, and is the version that follows in the recipe opposite.

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Ingredients

1.5 litres (51 fl oz/6 cups) lamb or beef stock
1.2 kg (2 lb 11 oz) lamb shank (2–3 pieces)
1 medium leek, sliced, including the green tops
2 tsp dried spearmint or mint, plus extra to serve
2 medium carrots, cut into 2 cm (¾ in) chunks
2 medium parsnips, cut into 2 cm (¾ in) chunks
2 medium red (bell) peppers, sliced
180 g (6 oz/generous ¾ cup) pearl barley
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method

In a large pan with a lid, bring the stock and the lamb shanks to the boil. Reduce the heat to medium–low to simmer gently and add the leeks and dried mint. Cover the pan and cook for 1 hour 20 minutes, checking occasionally to see that it’s not boiling too fast or too slow, then adjust the heat.

Add the carrots, parsnips, peppers and pearl barley, cover and cook for another 45 minutes.

By this time, the meat should be tender and falling off the bone. Take the pan off the heat and remove the shanks from the soup. When they are cool enough to touch, discard the bones and portion the meat into large chunks. Return the meat to the pan and reheat, then taste and adjust the seasoning. Cover and cook for 5 minutes. Serve immediately, sprinkled with more mint.

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From the book: Danube

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