To make the preserved lemon meyer paste (makes about 1 litre):

Halve 8 of the lemons crossways and use the tip of a paring knife to remove the seeds (the remaining lemons will be for juicing). Slice into each lemon half from the cut side towards the end, leaving the two pieces connected by about 1.25cm of fruit.

Working over a bowl to catch run-off, rub a generous amount of kosher salt (about 2 teaspoons/6g per lemon half) over all of the exposed lemon flesh, then reshape the lemon halves.

Reserving the bowl of excess salt and juice, tightly pack the lemons into a sterilised wide-mouth 1-litre glass jar (see note below), breaking them apart as needed to fit them all in. If using turmeric, layer slices in as you go.

Squeeze the juice of 1 lemon into the reserved bowl of salt and top the jar off with the salty juice. Use a chopstick to remove air bubbles from between the lemons, gently tap the jar on the counter to let the juice settle, and add more lemon juice if needed to ensure the lemons are submerged, leaving 1.25cm of space at the top of the jar. Seal the jar with a sterilised lid (if using a metal lid, wrap it with plastic wrap to prevent corrosion).

Leave the jar at cool room temperature out of direct sunlight, shaking the jar daily and checking that the lemons remain submerged. The lemons are ready when the rinds are tender, about 3 weeks in moderate climates (in a cool climate this can take up to 1 month, while in a warm climate the lemons may be ready in about 1 week).

Reserving the brine, transfer the lemons and turmeric to a blender or food processor. Pulse to blend, adding a splash of brine if needed to encourage things along. When the lemons have mostly broken down, taste the paste and, if desired, add some or all of the brine to taste (otherwise, you can save the brine in a separate jar). Continue blending to achieve your desired texture—I prefer a smooth purée and usually end up using all of the brine. Transfer to a sterilised jar, cover with a sterilised lid, and refrigerate for up to 1 year, as long as you’re very careful to not cross-contaminate (i.e., always use a clean utensil and don’t double-dip!).

Note: To sterilise jars for canning and storing condiments, line a large pot with a rack or a few tea towels to prevent the jars jostling and cracking while they boil. Arrange the jars atop the rack or towels and fill them with hot water, then add enough water to the pot to cover the jars by at least 2.5cm. Bring the water to a boil, then set a timer for 10 minutes (if you are not at sea level, add a minute for each additional 300m of elevation). When the jars are finished boiling, turn off the heat and use a jar lifter to carefully remove them from the pot. Boiling water can damage jar lids and rings, so simply wash them with warm, soapy water. Set lids, rings, and jars on clean tea towels to dry.

To make the cake

Adjust an oven rack to the centre position and preheat to 180°C. Coat a 23cm round cake tin with nonstick cooking spray, line the bottom with a round of parchment, then spray the parchment and set the tin aside.

To make the cake, in a medium bowl, whisk together the granulated sugar, labne, oil, Meyer lemon paste, water, and eggs.

In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, and bicarbonate of soda. Whisk the wet mixture into the dry mixture until smooth. Scrape the batter into the prepared tin and smooth it out into an even layer.

Bake for 40 to 45 minutes, until an inserted cocktail stick emerges free of crumbs.

Let the cake cool in the tin for 10 minutes, then transfer to a wire rack to cool completely.

To make the glaze, in a medium bowl, whisk together 1 tablespoon lemon juice and the turmeric, then let the mixture sit for a few minutes to bloom. Whisk in the icing sugar and salt until smooth, adding more lemon juice as needed to get a drizzly consistency.

Spread the glaze over the cooled cake, letting it drip down the sides. Allow to set for 30 minutes before slicing the cake.

Store leftover cake in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days.